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From the beautiful cloth which is quietly suggestive, to bold expressions of deviant sexuality, cloth is a message carrier for both desiring and being desired. The drape, fold, touch and feel, the sound and look of cloth in motion, allow for the exploration of identity as a sensual, gendered or political experience. The book features contributions on the sensory rustle and drape of silk taffeta and the secret pleasures of embroidery, on fetishistic punk street-style and homoerotic intimacy in men's shirts on screen, and a new perspective on the role of cloth and skin in the classic film Blade Runner. In doing so, it interrogates experiences of cloth within social, historical, psychological and cultural contexts.
Divided into four sections on representation, design, otherness and performance, The Erotic Cloth showcases a variety of debates that are at the heart of contemporary textile research, drawing on the fields of art, design, film, performance, culture and politics. Playful, provocative and beautifully illustrated with over 50 color images, it will appeal to students and scholars of textiles, fashion, gender, art and anthropology.
From the beautiful cloth which is quietly suggestive, to bold expressions of deviant sexuality, cloth is a message carrier for both desiring and being desired. The drape, fold, touch and feel, the sound and look of cloth in motion, allow for the exploration of identity as a sensual, gendered or political experience. The book features contributions on the sensory rustle and drape of silk taffeta and the secret pleasures of embroidery, on fetishistic punk street-style and homoerotic intimacy in men's shirts on screen, and a new perspective on the role of cloth and skin in the classic film Blade Runner. In doing so, it interrogates experiences of cloth within social, historical, psychological and cultural contexts.
Divided into four sections on representation, design, otherness and performance, The Erotic Cloth showcases a variety of debates that are at the heart of contemporary textile research, drawing on the fields of art, design, film, performance, culture and politics. Playful, provocative and beautifully illustrated with over 50 color images, it will appeal to students and scholars of textiles, fashion, gender, art and anthropology.
Alice Kettle is Professor of Textile Arts at Manchester Metropolitan University, UK and Visiting Professor at the Center for Real World Learning, University of Winchester, UK.
List of illustrations
Foreword, Mary Schoeser
Acknowledgements
An introduction to The Erotic Cloth
Prof. Lesley Millar and Prof. Alice Kettle
I. The representation of cloth
1. Folds, scissors and cleavage in Giovanni Battista Moroni's Il Tagliapanni
Angela Maddock
2. A perverted taste: Italian depictions of cloth and puberty in mid-nineteenth-century marble
Dr Claire Jones
3. Stitching up: embroidering the sex life of a fetishist image-maker
Dr Nigel Hurlstone
II. Making and remaking the cloth
4. The rustle of taffeta - the value of hapticity in research and reconstruction of an eighteenth-century Sack-back dress
Debra Roberts
5. The embroiderer's jouissance: stitching a feminine identity in an environment of mining machismo
Ruth Hingston
6. Flying in the face of fashion; how through punk, fetish and sexually orientated clothing made it into the mainstream
Prof. Malcolm Garrett in conversation with Prof. Alice Kettle
III. The alternative cloth
7. Present or absent shirts: creation of a lexicon of erotic intimacy and masculine mourning
Prof. Catherine Harper
8. Empowering the Replicant: visual and haptic narratives in Blade Runner
Caroline Wintersgill and Dr Savithri Bartlett
9. Caressing cloth: the warp and weft as site of exchange
Dr Catherine Dormor
IV. The performing cloth
10. Curvatures of cloth: William Hogarth's Line of Beauty and 'The heart of true eroticism' in serpentine dance
Dr Georgina Williams
11. The echoes of erotic cloth in film
Liz Rideal
12. UN/DRESS
Masako Matsushita in conversation with Prof. Lesley Millar
Afterword: Erotic cloth - the case of kimono
Yuko Ikeda
| Erscheinungsjahr: | 2018 |
|---|---|
| Genre: | Kunst |
| Rubrik: | Kunst & Musik |
| Thema: | Innenarchitektur & Design |
| Medium: | Taschenbuch |
| Seiten: | 200 |
| Inhalt: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| ISBN-13: | 9781474286800 |
| ISBN-10: | 1474286801 |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Einband: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| Autor: | Millar, Lesley |
| Redaktion: |
Kettle, Alice
Millar, Lesley |
| Hersteller: | Bloomsbury Publishing PLC |
| Maße: | 274 x 217 x 15 mm |
| Von/Mit: | Alice Kettle (u. a.) |
| Erscheinungsdatum: | 08.02.2018 |
| Gewicht: | 0,752 kg |
Alice Kettle is Professor of Textile Arts at Manchester Metropolitan University, UK and Visiting Professor at the Center for Real World Learning, University of Winchester, UK.
List of illustrations
Foreword, Mary Schoeser
Acknowledgements
An introduction to The Erotic Cloth
Prof. Lesley Millar and Prof. Alice Kettle
I. The representation of cloth
1. Folds, scissors and cleavage in Giovanni Battista Moroni's Il Tagliapanni
Angela Maddock
2. A perverted taste: Italian depictions of cloth and puberty in mid-nineteenth-century marble
Dr Claire Jones
3. Stitching up: embroidering the sex life of a fetishist image-maker
Dr Nigel Hurlstone
II. Making and remaking the cloth
4. The rustle of taffeta - the value of hapticity in research and reconstruction of an eighteenth-century Sack-back dress
Debra Roberts
5. The embroiderer's jouissance: stitching a feminine identity in an environment of mining machismo
Ruth Hingston
6. Flying in the face of fashion; how through punk, fetish and sexually orientated clothing made it into the mainstream
Prof. Malcolm Garrett in conversation with Prof. Alice Kettle
III. The alternative cloth
7. Present or absent shirts: creation of a lexicon of erotic intimacy and masculine mourning
Prof. Catherine Harper
8. Empowering the Replicant: visual and haptic narratives in Blade Runner
Caroline Wintersgill and Dr Savithri Bartlett
9. Caressing cloth: the warp and weft as site of exchange
Dr Catherine Dormor
IV. The performing cloth
10. Curvatures of cloth: William Hogarth's Line of Beauty and 'The heart of true eroticism' in serpentine dance
Dr Georgina Williams
11. The echoes of erotic cloth in film
Liz Rideal
12. UN/DRESS
Masako Matsushita in conversation with Prof. Lesley Millar
Afterword: Erotic cloth - the case of kimono
Yuko Ikeda
| Erscheinungsjahr: | 2018 |
|---|---|
| Genre: | Kunst |
| Rubrik: | Kunst & Musik |
| Thema: | Innenarchitektur & Design |
| Medium: | Taschenbuch |
| Seiten: | 200 |
| Inhalt: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| ISBN-13: | 9781474286800 |
| ISBN-10: | 1474286801 |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Einband: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| Autor: | Millar, Lesley |
| Redaktion: |
Kettle, Alice
Millar, Lesley |
| Hersteller: | Bloomsbury Publishing PLC |
| Maße: | 274 x 217 x 15 mm |
| Von/Mit: | Alice Kettle (u. a.) |
| Erscheinungsdatum: | 08.02.2018 |
| Gewicht: | 0,752 kg |
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