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When Hong Kong entrepreneur David Tang opened his Shanghai Tang boutique on New York's Madison Avenue, it was not an isolated example of the globalization of Asian fashion. Further evidence is written on the labels in our closets, and paraded in the form of salwaar-kameez and silk sarongs by the rich and famous of London. The phenomenon merits scrutiny. This vanguard attempt points to the colonial era as the origin of fashion globalization, and describes its development as paralleling the gradual take-over of Asian daily wear by Western dress. From indigenous Batak weavers to Hong Kong designers, and from Indonesian businesswomen's power suits to Korean feminists' national costume, this book explores the sartorial interface of East and [...] globalization of Asian dress needs to be understood as part of an ongoing Orientalism that construes Asia as a feminine Other to the masculine West. The conventional Orientalist definition of fashion as an exclusively Western phenomenon has proved self-fulfilling in both East and West so that the conceptual boundary between the two is continually reasserted by design. Paying close attention to Asians' decisions about what clothing to make, sell, buy, and wear, the case studies in this book challenge Orientalist stereotypes of Asian style as passive and traditional and highlight how these actions are often made invisible by global cultural, rhetorical, and material practices that feminize Asia and the fashion world. This timely book will be of interest to dress and fashion theorists, anthropologists, sociologists, historians, art historians and all those interested in globalization, Orientalism and their effects.
When Hong Kong entrepreneur David Tang opened his Shanghai Tang boutique on New York's Madison Avenue, it was not an isolated example of the globalization of Asian fashion. Further evidence is written on the labels in our closets, and paraded in the form of salwaar-kameez and silk sarongs by the rich and famous of London. The phenomenon merits scrutiny. This vanguard attempt points to the colonial era as the origin of fashion globalization, and describes its development as paralleling the gradual take-over of Asian daily wear by Western dress. From indigenous Batak weavers to Hong Kong designers, and from Indonesian businesswomen's power suits to Korean feminists' national costume, this book explores the sartorial interface of East and [...] globalization of Asian dress needs to be understood as part of an ongoing Orientalism that construes Asia as a feminine Other to the masculine West. The conventional Orientalist definition of fashion as an exclusively Western phenomenon has proved self-fulfilling in both East and West so that the conceptual boundary between the two is continually reasserted by design. Paying close attention to Asians' decisions about what clothing to make, sell, buy, and wear, the case studies in this book challenge Orientalist stereotypes of Asian style as passive and traditional and highlight how these actions are often made invisible by global cultural, rhetorical, and material practices that feminize Asia and the fashion world. This timely book will be of interest to dress and fashion theorists, anthropologists, sociologists, historians, art historians and all those interested in globalization, Orientalism and their effects.
Über den Autor
Sandra Niessen is an Anthropologist, Department of Human Ecology, University of Alberta.
Ann Marie Leshkowich is Assistant Professor of Anthropology, College of the Holy Cross.
Carla Jones is Vernacular Modernities Postdoctoral Fellow, Emory University.
Ann Marie Leshkowich is Assistant Professor of Anthropology, College of the Holy Cross.
Carla Jones is Vernacular Modernities Postdoctoral Fellow, Emory University.
Zusammenfassung
Also available in hardback, 9781859735343 £50.00 (April, 2003)
Inhaltsverzeichnis
Contents
Notes on Contributorsvii
Acknowledgmentsix
Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress:
Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?1
Carla Jones and Ann Marie Leshkowich
1Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History:
Designing Participation in the Global Fashion
Trajectory49
Sandra Niessen
2The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International
Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have
Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"79
Ann Marie Leshkowich
3Korean Alterations: Nationalism, Social
Consciousness, and "Traditional" Clothing 117
Rebecca Ruhlen
4Designing Diasporic Markets: Asian Fashion
Entrepreneurs in London139
Parminder Bhachu
5National Colors: Ethnic Minorities in
Vietnamese Public Imagery159
Hjorleifur R. Jonsson and Nora A. Taylor
6Dress for Sukses: Fashioning Femininity and
Nationality in Urban Indonesia185
Carla Jones
7Fashion-Nation: A Japanese Globalization
Experience and a Hong Kong Dilemma215
Lise Skov
Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory243
Sandra Niessen
Index267
Notes on Contributorsvii
Acknowledgmentsix
Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress:
Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?1
Carla Jones and Ann Marie Leshkowich
1Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History:
Designing Participation in the Global Fashion
Trajectory49
Sandra Niessen
2The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International
Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have
Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"79
Ann Marie Leshkowich
3Korean Alterations: Nationalism, Social
Consciousness, and "Traditional" Clothing 117
Rebecca Ruhlen
4Designing Diasporic Markets: Asian Fashion
Entrepreneurs in London139
Parminder Bhachu
5National Colors: Ethnic Minorities in
Vietnamese Public Imagery159
Hjorleifur R. Jonsson and Nora A. Taylor
6Dress for Sukses: Fashioning Femininity and
Nationality in Urban Indonesia185
Carla Jones
7Fashion-Nation: A Japanese Globalization
Experience and a Hong Kong Dilemma215
Lise Skov
Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory243
Sandra Niessen
Index267
Details
| Erscheinungsjahr: | 2003 |
|---|---|
| Genre: | Importe, Kunst |
| Rubrik: | Kunst & Musik |
| Thema: | Innenarchitektur & Design |
| Medium: | Taschenbuch |
| Inhalt: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| ISBN-13: | 9781859735398 |
| ISBN-10: | 1859735398 |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Einband: | Kartoniert / Broschiert |
| Redaktion: |
Niessen, Sandra
Leshkowich, Ann Marie Jones, Carla |
| Hersteller: | Berg 3PL |
| Verantwortliche Person für die EU: | Libri GmbH, Europaallee 1, D-36244 Bad Hersfeld, gpsr@libri.de |
| Maße: | 234 x 156 x 17 mm |
| Von/Mit: | Sandra Niessen (u. a.) |
| Erscheinungsdatum: | 01.04.2003 |
| Gewicht: | 0,453 kg |