Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing

Part 13.1 Cosmetic Manufacturing Processes

Editor: Bruce Victor

Contributors:

Donald S. Buell Este Lauder Companies, Inc.

Rose Khosravani Este Lauder Companies, Inc.

Doug J. Melenkevitz Este Lauder Companies, Inc.

Bruce L. Victor Este Lauder Companies, Inc.

David P. Yacko Este Lauder Companies, Inc.

Meyer R. Rosen Interactive Consulting, Inc.

Table of Contents:

13.1 Introduction

13.1.2 Unit Operations

a. Mixing

1. Quality of Mixing

2. Mixing Rheology

3. Heat Transfer

4. Types of Reactors and Their Use in Cosmetics

5. Emulsion Processing EquipmentHeat Transfer

13.1.3.1 Wet SystemsSingle Phase (Miscible) Systems

a. Flow Patterns: Fluids with Low or Medium Viscosity (< 5,000 centipoise)

b. Impellers for Liquids of Low and Medium Viscosity

c. Power Consumption

d. Pumping Capacity and Velocity Head

e. Mixing Time

f. Influence of Vessel Shape

g. Flow Patterns: Fluids of High Viscosity

h. Impeller Types and Mixers for High-Viscosity Fluids

13.1.3.2 Wet Systems - Multiphase Systems

a. The Emulsification Process

b. Orientation of Phases

c. Addition of Surfactant

d. Emulsion Temperature

e. Emulsion Processing Equipment - Mixing

f. High-Shear Mixers and Dispersion Equipment

g. Batch Homogenizers

h. Continuous High-Pressure Homogenizers and Mixers

i. Processing of Water in Silicone Emulsions

j. Liposome Production

13.1.3.3 Wet SystemsLiquidSolid Systems

a. Suspension of Solids

b. Milling Equipment

c. Colloid Mills

d. Ball Mills

e. Three-Roll Mills

13.1.4 Filling

a. Filling Parameters

b. Filling Machines

c. Filling Low-Viscosity Products (Lotions, Toners, Liquid Makeups)

d. Filling High-Viscosity Products (Creams, Mascaras, Masks)

e. FillingTraditional Lotion Products

f. Filling Shear-Sensitive Products

g. Filling Shampoos, Conditioners, CleansersProducts That Aerate

h. Packaging Lines

i. Warm and Hot FillsCreams and Dispersions

j. Warm and Hot FillsGodet Products

k. Warm and Hot FillsLipsticks, Lip Balms, Suppositories

l. Antiperspirants and Deodorants

13.1.5 Scale-Up

a. Agitation

b. High-Shear Mixing

c. Heat Transfer

d. Mass Transfer

13.1.6 Dry Systems

a. Blending Equipment

b. Shearing Equipment

c. Alternatives to the Hammer Mill

d. Batch Color Correction

e. Powder Grinds for Creams and Lotions BatchesDry Mix

f. Loose Powders

g. Filling Loose Powders

h. Filling Pressed Powders

i. Powder Scale-Up Batch

13.1.7.1 Wet Continuous Process

a. Emulsion Products Requiring Cooling

b. Emulsion Hair Conditioners

c. Hair Gels

d. Scale-Up of Continuous Systems

e. Production Design Considerations

13.1.7.2 Dry Continuous Processing

Bulk Powder Storage

Part 13.2

Cold-Process Emulsification Producing Sub-Micron Dispersions:

Formulation and Aesthetic Enhancement of Cosmetic and OTC Products

13.2.1 Contemporary Cosmetics

a. The Future

b. Properties of Emulsions

c. Issues with Emulsions