1. Introduction: Modernity, Fashion and Japan
Modernity and Modernity in Clothing
Global Fashion and National Cultures
Japan

2. Japanese Clothes 1800-2000
Clothing in the Edo Period
Nakedness and Covering It
Decency
Foundation Choices: Yoga and Nihonga
Materials and Materialism
'Westernisation' and Japanese Fashion
Textile Industrialisation
The Democratisation of Consumption
World War II
The Rise of Designers
Today's Subcultures

3. Japanese Menswear: Masculinity and Sartorial Statecraft
Uniforms and the State: The Emperor's New Clothes
Suits: Modern and Classic Masculinity
The Suit in Europe and America
The Growing Civilised Centre
The Japanese Suit
The Rokumeikan
Modern Boys
Possible Masculinities post 2000

4. Japanese Womenswear: Femininity and Modernity
Traditional Notions of Sartorial Womanhood
Meiji Girl Students and School Uniforms
Taisho Decadence and the Moga
Sportswear, Swimwear & Movement
Cosmetics and Substance
Hairstyles: The First Experiments
Kimono Reform and Traditional Identity
Feminine Formality and Time
1960s Counter Culture in Japan
Japanese Femininity Today

5. Conclusions: Theories of Japanese Fashion
The Economics of Aesthetics
A Set of Reoccurring Questions
Functional Explanations
Fashion as the Search for Meaning and/or Identity
Fashion and the Struggle for Status
The Economics of Fashion
Fashion as Communication
Dynamic Explanations of Fashion
Fashion as Diffusion
Cycles of Fashion
Fashion as Erotic
Fashion and the Zeitgeist
Fashion as Aesthetics

Acknowledgements
Bibliography