Back in the 1980s, Dana Facaros spent three of the best years of her life with her family in a tiny hamlet (pop. 52) in Umbria's Valnerina, without a car or telephone, but where she and her husband Michael Pauls were instant celebrities by the mere fact of having two cute little kids, who went to the local school and immediately learned all the parolaccia (swear words) in Umbrian dialect. Along with acquiring in-depth experience of Italy's public transport system, developing an expensive taste for truffles, having long Sunday picnics in the Piano Grande and learning how to tell one 14th-century painter of Madonnas from another, Dana and Michael have been writing about the region and the next-door region of Le Marche ever since, and go back to visit as often as possible.

Introduction Chapter 1 Background At a glance, Geography & geology, Climate, Natural history & conservation, History, Government & politics, Economy, People & culture, Art & architecture Chapter 2 Practical information When to visit, Highlights, Suggested itineraries, Tour operators, Red tape, Embassies, Getting there and away, Health, Safety, Women travellers, Gay & lesbian travellers, Travelling with kids, What to take, Money, Budgeting, Getting around (plus a bit on Athens) Accommodation, Eating & drinking, Public holidays & festivals, Shopping, Arts & entertainment, Photography, Media & communications, Cultural etiquette, Travelling positively Part I Umbria Introduction Chapter 3 Perugia and around Perugia; Outskirts of Perugia; South of Perugia; Lake Trasimeno Chapter 4 Northern Umbria Umbertide and Around; Citta di Castello; aroumd Citta di Castello; Gubbio; Down the Via Flaminia; Chapter 5 Assisi and the Valle Umbra Assisi; Spello; Foligno;Bevagna; Montefalco; Around Montefalco: Into the Monti Martani; Spoleto Chapter 6 The Tiber Valley Todi ; Around Todi; Orvieto; Around Orvieto; Amelia Chapter 7 The Valnerina Narni, Terni and Around; Terni; The Upper Valnerina; Cascia; Norcia; Piano Grande Part 2 The Marche Introduction Chapter 8 Ancona and around Ancona; Cornero Riviera; Valesino; Upper Valesino; South of Ancona Chapter 9 Northern Marche and San Marino Senigallia; Fano; Pesaro; Urbino; Northwest of Urbino: the Montfeltro; San Marino; South of Urbino: The Upper Metauro Valley Chapter 10 Macerata and Around Macerta; Around Macerta; West in Cingoli; Tolentino and the Chienta Valley; South of Tolentino; San Severino Marche; Camerino; The Monti Sibillini National Park; Fermo and the coast Chapter 11 Southern Marche Ascoli Piceno; Riviera del Palme; towards Umbria and Arquata del Tronto Appendices Language Glossary Further info