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Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology
An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find:
* A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
* Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union
* Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others
* Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel
* Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find:
* A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
* Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union
* Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others
* Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel
* Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology
An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find:
* A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
* Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union
* Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others
* Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel
* Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
An accessible and practical review of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
In the newly revised second edition of Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology, veteran educator and researcher Dr. Gabriella Baki delivers a comprehensive discussion of cosmetics and personal care products, including coverage of basic concepts, ingredient selection, formulation technology, and testing. The book offers a clear and easy-to-understand review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products available in the United States.
In this latest edition, the author expands on general concepts and adds brand-new chapters on the basics of cosmetics testing, ingredients, and skin lightening products. Each chapter includes a summary of common abbreviations with questions provided online, alongside a solutions manual for instructors.
Readers will also find:
* A thorough introduction to the basic definitions, claims, and classifications of cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products
* Comprehensive explorations of the current rules and regulations for cosmetics and OTC drug-cosmetic products in the United States and European Union
* Detailed review of cosmetic ingredients, functions, and typical uses both in a dedicated a chapter and included within various others
* Practical coverage of good manufacturing practices for cosmetics, including documentation, buildings and facilities, equipment, and personnel
* Fulsome review of a variety of skin and hair care products, color cosmetics, and other personal care products
Perfect for undergraduate and graduate students studying cosmetic science in chemistry, chemical engineering, pharmaceutical, biomedical, and biology departments, Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology will also benefit cosmetic chemists, cosmetic product formulators, cosmetic scientists, quality control managers, cosmetic testing specialists, and technicians.
Über den Autor
Gabriella Baki, PhD, is an associate professor and the program director of the Bachelor of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design major at the University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. She also serves as a research advisor for students in her cosmetic science research group.
Inhaltsverzeichnis
Author Biography xxiii
Preface xxv
Acknowledgments xxvii
About the Companion Website xxix
Part 1 General Concepts 1
1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 3
Learning Objectives 3
Key Concepts 4
1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5
1.2 Basic Definitions 8
1.2.1 United States 8
1.2.2 Other Markets 10
1.3 How is a Product's Intended Use Established in the US? 13
1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 14
1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15
1.5.1 Types of Claims 15
1.5.2 Regulation of Cosmetic Claims in the US 17
1.5.3 Popular Cosmetic Claims 18
1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27
Glossary of Terms 28
Abbreviations 30
References 30
2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 33
Learning Objectives 33
Key Concepts 34
2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35
2.1.1 Abrasives 35
2.1.2 Antioxidants 36
2.1.3 Chelating Agents 37
2.1.4 Color Additives 38
2.1.5 Exfoliants 41
2.1.6 Film Formers 42
2.1.7 Flavoring Agents 42
2.1.8 Fragrances 43
2.1.9 Moisturizers 45
2.1.10 pH Adjusters 46
2.1.11 pH Buffers 46
2.1.12 Plasticizers 46
2.1.13 Preservatives 47
2.1.14 Propellants 48
2.1.15 Silicones 48
2.1.16 Solvents 49
2.1.17 Surfactants 50
2.1.18 Sweeteners 53
2.1.19 Thickeners 53
2.2 Active Ingredients 55
2.2.1 Anti-Acne Ingredients 56
2.2.2 Anticavity Ingredients 57
2.2.3 Anti-Dandruff Ingredients 57
2.2.4 Antiperspirant Ingredients 57
2.2.5 Skin Protectant Ingredients 58
2.2.6 Topical Antiseptic Ingredients 58
2.2.7 UV Filters 59
Glossary of Terms 59
Abbreviations 61
References 62
3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 65
Learning Objectives 65
Key Concepts 66
3.1 Introduction 66
3.2 What is a Product Form? 67
3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68
3.3.1 Solution 68
3.3.2 Emulsion 69
3.3.3 Suspension 72
3.3.4 Ointment 74
3.3.5 Paste 75
3.3.6 Gel 75
3.3.7 Powder 76
3.3.8 Capsule 77
3.3.9 Stick 77
3.3.10 Aerosol 77
Glossary of Terms 78
Abbreviations 79
References 80
4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81
Learning Objectives 81
Key Concepts 82
4.1 Introduction 83
4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83
4.2.1 FDA Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) 84
4.2.2 FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) 84
4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85
4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85
4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86
4.6 National Advertising Division 87
4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87
4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88
4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88
4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88
[...]opean Commission 89
4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89
4.13 Cosmetics Europe - the Personal Care Association 89
Glossary of Terms 90
Abbreviations 90
References 91
5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93
Learning Objectives 93
Key Concepts 94
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Regulation in the US 95
5.2.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 95
5.2.2 Premarket Approval 97
5.2.3 Manufacturing 98
5.2.4 Use of Ingredients 98
5.2.5 Product Safety 99
5.2.6 Packaging and Labeling 101
5.2.7 Import of Products 102
5.2.8 Recalls 102
5.3 Regulation in the EU 104
5.3.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 105
5.3.2 Premarket Approval 105
5.3.3 Manufacturing 105
5.3.4 Use of Ingredients 105
5.3.5 Product Safety 106
5.3.6 Packaging and Labeling 107
5.3.7 Import of Products 107
5.3.8 Recalls 107
Glossary of Terms 108
Abbreviations 108
References 109
6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111
Learning Objectives 111
Key Concepts 112
6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112
6.1.1 Documentation 115
6.1.2 Records 115
6.1.3 Buildings and Facilities 116
6.1.4 Equipment 116
6.1.5 Personnel 116
6.1.6 Raw Materials 117
6.1.7 Production 117
6.1.8 Laboratory Controls 117
6.1.9 Internal Audit 117
6.1.10 Complaints Adverse Events and Recalls 117
Glossary of Terms 119
Abbreviations 120
References 120
7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121
Learning Objectives 121
Key Concepts 122
7.1 Introduction 123
7.1.1 Definitions 124
7.2 Cosmetic Products 125
7.2.1 Principal Display Panel 125
7.2.2 Information Panels 127
7.3 OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 130
7.3.1 Principal Display Panel 130
7.3.2 Information Panels 131
7.4 INCI Naming 134
7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug-Cosmetic Product? 136
Glossary of Terms 137
Abbreviations 138
References 139
8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 141
Learning Objectives 141
Key Concepts 142
8.1 Product Development Cycle 143
8.2 Product Testing 144
8.2.1 Quality Testing 145
8.2.2 Stability Testing 147
8.2.3 Safety Testing 150
8.2.4 Performance Testing 153
Glossary of Terms 156
Abbreviations 157
References 157
Part 2 Skin Care Products 161
9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163
Learning Objectives 163
Key Concepts 164
9.1 Introduction 165
9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165
9.2.1 Epidermis 165
9.2.2 Dermis 170
9.2.3 Hypodermis 172
9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172
9.3.1 Moisture Content of Normal Skin 172
9.3.2 Skin Flora and Skin pH 174
9.3.3 Surface Charge of Normal Skin 175
9.3.4 Skin Types 175
Glossary of Terms 178
Abbreviations 180
References 180
10 Skin Cleansing Products 183
Learning Objectives 183
Key Concepts 185
10.1 Introduction 186
10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186
10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187
10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188
10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191
10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191
10.6.1 Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness 191
10.6.2 Classification Based on Cleaning Principle 192
10.6.3 Classification Based on Foamability 193
10.6.4 Classification Based on Product Types 194
10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195
10.7.1 Facial Cleansers 195
10.7.2 Body Cleansers 200
10.7.3 Hand Cleansers 206
10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211
10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212
10.9.1 Sticky Bath Salts and Bath Bombs 212
10.9.2 Broken Bath Bombs 213
10.9.3 Discoloration of Bar Soaps 213
10.9.4 Poor Foaming Activity of Foaming Formulations 213
10.9.5 Separation of Emulsions 213
10.9.6 Cloudy Solution 215
10.9.7 Microbiological Contamination 215
10.9.8 Clump formation 216
10.9.9 Rancidity 216
10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216
10.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 216
10.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 229
10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231
10.11.1 Parabens 231
10.11.2 Sulfates 232
10.11.3 1,4-Dioxane 232
10.11.4 Microbeads 233
10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233
Glossary of Terms 234
Abbreviations 236
References 237
11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243
Learning Objectives 243
Key Concepts 244
11.1 Introduction 245
11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245
11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246
11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247
11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249
11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249
11.6.1 Skin Hydrating and Moisturizing Ingredients 250
11.6.2 Additional Ingredients in Skin Moisturizers 254
11.7 Product Types 256
11.7.1 Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 258
11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259
11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260
11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260
11.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267
11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268
Glossary of Terms 269
Acronyms 270
References 270
12 Products for Aging 275
Learning Objectives 275
Key Concepts 276
12.1 Introduction 277
12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277
12.2.1 Intrinsic Aging 277
12.2.2 Extrinsic Aging 279
12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281
12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282
12.4.1 Botanical Extracts 283
12.4.2 Antioxidants 283
12.4.3 Peptides and Proteins 284
12.4.4 Retinoids 284
12.4.5 Hydroxy Acids 285
12.4.6 Sunscreens 286
12.4.7 Chemical Peels 286
12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287
12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290
12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291
12.7.1 AHAs 292
12.7.2 Topical Retinoids 292
12.7.3 Peptides and Proteins 292
12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293
Glossary of Terms 293
Abbreviations 294
References 295
13 Products for Acne 301
Learning Objectives 301
Key Concepts 302
13.1 Introduction 302
13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303
13.3 Development of Acne 304
13.3.1 Pathogenesis of Acne 304
13.3.2 Causes of Acne and Potential Exacerbating Factors 305
13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307
13.4.1 Noninflammatory Acne 307
13.4.2 Inflammatory Acne 308
13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309
13.5.1 Topical Treatment Options 309
13.5.2 Systemic Treatment Options 312
13.5.3 Additional Treatment Options 313
13.6 Formulation Considerations 314
13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315
13.7.1 Topical Ingredients 315
13.7.2 Oral Retinoids 315
13.7.3 Antibacterial Resistance 316
13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316
Glossary of Terms 316
Abbreviations 317
References 317
14 Skin Lightening Products 323
Learning Objectives 323
Key Concepts 324
14.1 Introduction 325
14.2 Skin Color and Production...
Preface xxv
Acknowledgments xxvii
About the Companion Website xxix
Part 1 General Concepts 1
1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 3
Learning Objectives 3
Key Concepts 4
1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5
1.2 Basic Definitions 8
1.2.1 United States 8
1.2.2 Other Markets 10
1.3 How is a Product's Intended Use Established in the US? 13
1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 14
1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15
1.5.1 Types of Claims 15
1.5.2 Regulation of Cosmetic Claims in the US 17
1.5.3 Popular Cosmetic Claims 18
1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27
Glossary of Terms 28
Abbreviations 30
References 30
2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 33
Learning Objectives 33
Key Concepts 34
2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35
2.1.1 Abrasives 35
2.1.2 Antioxidants 36
2.1.3 Chelating Agents 37
2.1.4 Color Additives 38
2.1.5 Exfoliants 41
2.1.6 Film Formers 42
2.1.7 Flavoring Agents 42
2.1.8 Fragrances 43
2.1.9 Moisturizers 45
2.1.10 pH Adjusters 46
2.1.11 pH Buffers 46
2.1.12 Plasticizers 46
2.1.13 Preservatives 47
2.1.14 Propellants 48
2.1.15 Silicones 48
2.1.16 Solvents 49
2.1.17 Surfactants 50
2.1.18 Sweeteners 53
2.1.19 Thickeners 53
2.2 Active Ingredients 55
2.2.1 Anti-Acne Ingredients 56
2.2.2 Anticavity Ingredients 57
2.2.3 Anti-Dandruff Ingredients 57
2.2.4 Antiperspirant Ingredients 57
2.2.5 Skin Protectant Ingredients 58
2.2.6 Topical Antiseptic Ingredients 58
2.2.7 UV Filters 59
Glossary of Terms 59
Abbreviations 61
References 62
3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 65
Learning Objectives 65
Key Concepts 66
3.1 Introduction 66
3.2 What is a Product Form? 67
3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68
3.3.1 Solution 68
3.3.2 Emulsion 69
3.3.3 Suspension 72
3.3.4 Ointment 74
3.3.5 Paste 75
3.3.6 Gel 75
3.3.7 Powder 76
3.3.8 Capsule 77
3.3.9 Stick 77
3.3.10 Aerosol 77
Glossary of Terms 78
Abbreviations 79
References 80
4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81
Learning Objectives 81
Key Concepts 82
4.1 Introduction 83
4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83
4.2.1 FDA Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) 84
4.2.2 FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) 84
4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85
4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85
4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86
4.6 National Advertising Division 87
4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87
4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88
4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88
4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88
[...]opean Commission 89
4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89
4.13 Cosmetics Europe - the Personal Care Association 89
Glossary of Terms 90
Abbreviations 90
References 91
5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93
Learning Objectives 93
Key Concepts 94
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Regulation in the US 95
5.2.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 95
5.2.2 Premarket Approval 97
5.2.3 Manufacturing 98
5.2.4 Use of Ingredients 98
5.2.5 Product Safety 99
5.2.6 Packaging and Labeling 101
5.2.7 Import of Products 102
5.2.8 Recalls 102
5.3 Regulation in the EU 104
5.3.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 105
5.3.2 Premarket Approval 105
5.3.3 Manufacturing 105
5.3.4 Use of Ingredients 105
5.3.5 Product Safety 106
5.3.6 Packaging and Labeling 107
5.3.7 Import of Products 107
5.3.8 Recalls 107
Glossary of Terms 108
Abbreviations 108
References 109
6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111
Learning Objectives 111
Key Concepts 112
6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112
6.1.1 Documentation 115
6.1.2 Records 115
6.1.3 Buildings and Facilities 116
6.1.4 Equipment 116
6.1.5 Personnel 116
6.1.6 Raw Materials 117
6.1.7 Production 117
6.1.8 Laboratory Controls 117
6.1.9 Internal Audit 117
6.1.10 Complaints Adverse Events and Recalls 117
Glossary of Terms 119
Abbreviations 120
References 120
7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121
Learning Objectives 121
Key Concepts 122
7.1 Introduction 123
7.1.1 Definitions 124
7.2 Cosmetic Products 125
7.2.1 Principal Display Panel 125
7.2.2 Information Panels 127
7.3 OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 130
7.3.1 Principal Display Panel 130
7.3.2 Information Panels 131
7.4 INCI Naming 134
7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug-Cosmetic Product? 136
Glossary of Terms 137
Abbreviations 138
References 139
8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 141
Learning Objectives 141
Key Concepts 142
8.1 Product Development Cycle 143
8.2 Product Testing 144
8.2.1 Quality Testing 145
8.2.2 Stability Testing 147
8.2.3 Safety Testing 150
8.2.4 Performance Testing 153
Glossary of Terms 156
Abbreviations 157
References 157
Part 2 Skin Care Products 161
9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163
Learning Objectives 163
Key Concepts 164
9.1 Introduction 165
9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165
9.2.1 Epidermis 165
9.2.2 Dermis 170
9.2.3 Hypodermis 172
9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172
9.3.1 Moisture Content of Normal Skin 172
9.3.2 Skin Flora and Skin pH 174
9.3.3 Surface Charge of Normal Skin 175
9.3.4 Skin Types 175
Glossary of Terms 178
Abbreviations 180
References 180
10 Skin Cleansing Products 183
Learning Objectives 183
Key Concepts 185
10.1 Introduction 186
10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186
10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187
10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188
10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191
10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191
10.6.1 Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness 191
10.6.2 Classification Based on Cleaning Principle 192
10.6.3 Classification Based on Foamability 193
10.6.4 Classification Based on Product Types 194
10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195
10.7.1 Facial Cleansers 195
10.7.2 Body Cleansers 200
10.7.3 Hand Cleansers 206
10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211
10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212
10.9.1 Sticky Bath Salts and Bath Bombs 212
10.9.2 Broken Bath Bombs 213
10.9.3 Discoloration of Bar Soaps 213
10.9.4 Poor Foaming Activity of Foaming Formulations 213
10.9.5 Separation of Emulsions 213
10.9.6 Cloudy Solution 215
10.9.7 Microbiological Contamination 215
10.9.8 Clump formation 216
10.9.9 Rancidity 216
10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216
10.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 216
10.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 229
10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231
10.11.1 Parabens 231
10.11.2 Sulfates 232
10.11.3 1,4-Dioxane 232
10.11.4 Microbeads 233
10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233
Glossary of Terms 234
Abbreviations 236
References 237
11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243
Learning Objectives 243
Key Concepts 244
11.1 Introduction 245
11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245
11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246
11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247
11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249
11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249
11.6.1 Skin Hydrating and Moisturizing Ingredients 250
11.6.2 Additional Ingredients in Skin Moisturizers 254
11.7 Product Types 256
11.7.1 Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 258
11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259
11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260
11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260
11.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267
11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268
Glossary of Terms 269
Acronyms 270
References 270
12 Products for Aging 275
Learning Objectives 275
Key Concepts 276
12.1 Introduction 277
12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277
12.2.1 Intrinsic Aging 277
12.2.2 Extrinsic Aging 279
12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281
12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282
12.4.1 Botanical Extracts 283
12.4.2 Antioxidants 283
12.4.3 Peptides and Proteins 284
12.4.4 Retinoids 284
12.4.5 Hydroxy Acids 285
12.4.6 Sunscreens 286
12.4.7 Chemical Peels 286
12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287
12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290
12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291
12.7.1 AHAs 292
12.7.2 Topical Retinoids 292
12.7.3 Peptides and Proteins 292
12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293
Glossary of Terms 293
Abbreviations 294
References 295
13 Products for Acne 301
Learning Objectives 301
Key Concepts 302
13.1 Introduction 302
13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303
13.3 Development of Acne 304
13.3.1 Pathogenesis of Acne 304
13.3.2 Causes of Acne and Potential Exacerbating Factors 305
13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307
13.4.1 Noninflammatory Acne 307
13.4.2 Inflammatory Acne 308
13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309
13.5.1 Topical Treatment Options 309
13.5.2 Systemic Treatment Options 312
13.5.3 Additional Treatment Options 313
13.6 Formulation Considerations 314
13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315
13.7.1 Topical Ingredients 315
13.7.2 Oral Retinoids 315
13.7.3 Antibacterial Resistance 316
13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316
Glossary of Terms 316
Abbreviations 317
References 317
14 Skin Lightening Products 323
Learning Objectives 323
Key Concepts 324
14.1 Introduction 325
14.2 Skin Color and Production...
Details
| Erscheinungsjahr: | 2022 |
|---|---|
| Genre: | Chemie |
| Rubrik: | Naturwissenschaften & Technik |
| Medium: | Buch |
| Seiten: | 832 |
| Inhalt: | 832 S. |
| ISBN-13: | 9781119709770 |
| ISBN-10: | 1119709776 |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Einband: | Gebunden |
| Autor: | Baki, Gabriella |
| Hersteller: | John Wiley & Sons Inc |
| Maße: | 237 x 159 x 49 mm |
| Von/Mit: | Gabriella Baki |
| Erscheinungsdatum: | 09.12.2022 |
| Gewicht: | 1,282 kg |
Über den Autor
Gabriella Baki, PhD, is an associate professor and the program director of the Bachelor of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design major at the University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. She also serves as a research advisor for students in her cosmetic science research group.
Inhaltsverzeichnis
Author Biography xxiii
Preface xxv
Acknowledgments xxvii
About the Companion Website xxix
Part 1 General Concepts 1
1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 3
Learning Objectives 3
Key Concepts 4
1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5
1.2 Basic Definitions 8
1.2.1 United States 8
1.2.2 Other Markets 10
1.3 How is a Product's Intended Use Established in the US? 13
1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 14
1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15
1.5.1 Types of Claims 15
1.5.2 Regulation of Cosmetic Claims in the US 17
1.5.3 Popular Cosmetic Claims 18
1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27
Glossary of Terms 28
Abbreviations 30
References 30
2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 33
Learning Objectives 33
Key Concepts 34
2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35
2.1.1 Abrasives 35
2.1.2 Antioxidants 36
2.1.3 Chelating Agents 37
2.1.4 Color Additives 38
2.1.5 Exfoliants 41
2.1.6 Film Formers 42
2.1.7 Flavoring Agents 42
2.1.8 Fragrances 43
2.1.9 Moisturizers 45
2.1.10 pH Adjusters 46
2.1.11 pH Buffers 46
2.1.12 Plasticizers 46
2.1.13 Preservatives 47
2.1.14 Propellants 48
2.1.15 Silicones 48
2.1.16 Solvents 49
2.1.17 Surfactants 50
2.1.18 Sweeteners 53
2.1.19 Thickeners 53
2.2 Active Ingredients 55
2.2.1 Anti-Acne Ingredients 56
2.2.2 Anticavity Ingredients 57
2.2.3 Anti-Dandruff Ingredients 57
2.2.4 Antiperspirant Ingredients 57
2.2.5 Skin Protectant Ingredients 58
2.2.6 Topical Antiseptic Ingredients 58
2.2.7 UV Filters 59
Glossary of Terms 59
Abbreviations 61
References 62
3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 65
Learning Objectives 65
Key Concepts 66
3.1 Introduction 66
3.2 What is a Product Form? 67
3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68
3.3.1 Solution 68
3.3.2 Emulsion 69
3.3.3 Suspension 72
3.3.4 Ointment 74
3.3.5 Paste 75
3.3.6 Gel 75
3.3.7 Powder 76
3.3.8 Capsule 77
3.3.9 Stick 77
3.3.10 Aerosol 77
Glossary of Terms 78
Abbreviations 79
References 80
4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81
Learning Objectives 81
Key Concepts 82
4.1 Introduction 83
4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83
4.2.1 FDA Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) 84
4.2.2 FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) 84
4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85
4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85
4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86
4.6 National Advertising Division 87
4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87
4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88
4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88
4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88
[...]opean Commission 89
4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89
4.13 Cosmetics Europe - the Personal Care Association 89
Glossary of Terms 90
Abbreviations 90
References 91
5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93
Learning Objectives 93
Key Concepts 94
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Regulation in the US 95
5.2.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 95
5.2.2 Premarket Approval 97
5.2.3 Manufacturing 98
5.2.4 Use of Ingredients 98
5.2.5 Product Safety 99
5.2.6 Packaging and Labeling 101
5.2.7 Import of Products 102
5.2.8 Recalls 102
5.3 Regulation in the EU 104
5.3.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 105
5.3.2 Premarket Approval 105
5.3.3 Manufacturing 105
5.3.4 Use of Ingredients 105
5.3.5 Product Safety 106
5.3.6 Packaging and Labeling 107
5.3.7 Import of Products 107
5.3.8 Recalls 107
Glossary of Terms 108
Abbreviations 108
References 109
6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111
Learning Objectives 111
Key Concepts 112
6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112
6.1.1 Documentation 115
6.1.2 Records 115
6.1.3 Buildings and Facilities 116
6.1.4 Equipment 116
6.1.5 Personnel 116
6.1.6 Raw Materials 117
6.1.7 Production 117
6.1.8 Laboratory Controls 117
6.1.9 Internal Audit 117
6.1.10 Complaints Adverse Events and Recalls 117
Glossary of Terms 119
Abbreviations 120
References 120
7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121
Learning Objectives 121
Key Concepts 122
7.1 Introduction 123
7.1.1 Definitions 124
7.2 Cosmetic Products 125
7.2.1 Principal Display Panel 125
7.2.2 Information Panels 127
7.3 OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 130
7.3.1 Principal Display Panel 130
7.3.2 Information Panels 131
7.4 INCI Naming 134
7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug-Cosmetic Product? 136
Glossary of Terms 137
Abbreviations 138
References 139
8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 141
Learning Objectives 141
Key Concepts 142
8.1 Product Development Cycle 143
8.2 Product Testing 144
8.2.1 Quality Testing 145
8.2.2 Stability Testing 147
8.2.3 Safety Testing 150
8.2.4 Performance Testing 153
Glossary of Terms 156
Abbreviations 157
References 157
Part 2 Skin Care Products 161
9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163
Learning Objectives 163
Key Concepts 164
9.1 Introduction 165
9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165
9.2.1 Epidermis 165
9.2.2 Dermis 170
9.2.3 Hypodermis 172
9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172
9.3.1 Moisture Content of Normal Skin 172
9.3.2 Skin Flora and Skin pH 174
9.3.3 Surface Charge of Normal Skin 175
9.3.4 Skin Types 175
Glossary of Terms 178
Abbreviations 180
References 180
10 Skin Cleansing Products 183
Learning Objectives 183
Key Concepts 185
10.1 Introduction 186
10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186
10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187
10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188
10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191
10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191
10.6.1 Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness 191
10.6.2 Classification Based on Cleaning Principle 192
10.6.3 Classification Based on Foamability 193
10.6.4 Classification Based on Product Types 194
10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195
10.7.1 Facial Cleansers 195
10.7.2 Body Cleansers 200
10.7.3 Hand Cleansers 206
10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211
10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212
10.9.1 Sticky Bath Salts and Bath Bombs 212
10.9.2 Broken Bath Bombs 213
10.9.3 Discoloration of Bar Soaps 213
10.9.4 Poor Foaming Activity of Foaming Formulations 213
10.9.5 Separation of Emulsions 213
10.9.6 Cloudy Solution 215
10.9.7 Microbiological Contamination 215
10.9.8 Clump formation 216
10.9.9 Rancidity 216
10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216
10.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 216
10.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 229
10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231
10.11.1 Parabens 231
10.11.2 Sulfates 232
10.11.3 1,4-Dioxane 232
10.11.4 Microbeads 233
10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233
Glossary of Terms 234
Abbreviations 236
References 237
11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243
Learning Objectives 243
Key Concepts 244
11.1 Introduction 245
11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245
11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246
11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247
11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249
11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249
11.6.1 Skin Hydrating and Moisturizing Ingredients 250
11.6.2 Additional Ingredients in Skin Moisturizers 254
11.7 Product Types 256
11.7.1 Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 258
11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259
11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260
11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260
11.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267
11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268
Glossary of Terms 269
Acronyms 270
References 270
12 Products for Aging 275
Learning Objectives 275
Key Concepts 276
12.1 Introduction 277
12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277
12.2.1 Intrinsic Aging 277
12.2.2 Extrinsic Aging 279
12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281
12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282
12.4.1 Botanical Extracts 283
12.4.2 Antioxidants 283
12.4.3 Peptides and Proteins 284
12.4.4 Retinoids 284
12.4.5 Hydroxy Acids 285
12.4.6 Sunscreens 286
12.4.7 Chemical Peels 286
12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287
12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290
12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291
12.7.1 AHAs 292
12.7.2 Topical Retinoids 292
12.7.3 Peptides and Proteins 292
12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293
Glossary of Terms 293
Abbreviations 294
References 295
13 Products for Acne 301
Learning Objectives 301
Key Concepts 302
13.1 Introduction 302
13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303
13.3 Development of Acne 304
13.3.1 Pathogenesis of Acne 304
13.3.2 Causes of Acne and Potential Exacerbating Factors 305
13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307
13.4.1 Noninflammatory Acne 307
13.4.2 Inflammatory Acne 308
13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309
13.5.1 Topical Treatment Options 309
13.5.2 Systemic Treatment Options 312
13.5.3 Additional Treatment Options 313
13.6 Formulation Considerations 314
13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315
13.7.1 Topical Ingredients 315
13.7.2 Oral Retinoids 315
13.7.3 Antibacterial Resistance 316
13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316
Glossary of Terms 316
Abbreviations 317
References 317
14 Skin Lightening Products 323
Learning Objectives 323
Key Concepts 324
14.1 Introduction 325
14.2 Skin Color and Production...
Preface xxv
Acknowledgments xxvii
About the Companion Website xxix
Part 1 General Concepts 1
1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 3
Learning Objectives 3
Key Concepts 4
1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5
1.2 Basic Definitions 8
1.2.1 United States 8
1.2.2 Other Markets 10
1.3 How is a Product's Intended Use Established in the US? 13
1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 14
1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15
1.5.1 Types of Claims 15
1.5.2 Regulation of Cosmetic Claims in the US 17
1.5.3 Popular Cosmetic Claims 18
1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27
Glossary of Terms 28
Abbreviations 30
References 30
2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 33
Learning Objectives 33
Key Concepts 34
2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35
2.1.1 Abrasives 35
2.1.2 Antioxidants 36
2.1.3 Chelating Agents 37
2.1.4 Color Additives 38
2.1.5 Exfoliants 41
2.1.6 Film Formers 42
2.1.7 Flavoring Agents 42
2.1.8 Fragrances 43
2.1.9 Moisturizers 45
2.1.10 pH Adjusters 46
2.1.11 pH Buffers 46
2.1.12 Plasticizers 46
2.1.13 Preservatives 47
2.1.14 Propellants 48
2.1.15 Silicones 48
2.1.16 Solvents 49
2.1.17 Surfactants 50
2.1.18 Sweeteners 53
2.1.19 Thickeners 53
2.2 Active Ingredients 55
2.2.1 Anti-Acne Ingredients 56
2.2.2 Anticavity Ingredients 57
2.2.3 Anti-Dandruff Ingredients 57
2.2.4 Antiperspirant Ingredients 57
2.2.5 Skin Protectant Ingredients 58
2.2.6 Topical Antiseptic Ingredients 58
2.2.7 UV Filters 59
Glossary of Terms 59
Abbreviations 61
References 62
3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 65
Learning Objectives 65
Key Concepts 66
3.1 Introduction 66
3.2 What is a Product Form? 67
3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68
3.3.1 Solution 68
3.3.2 Emulsion 69
3.3.3 Suspension 72
3.3.4 Ointment 74
3.3.5 Paste 75
3.3.6 Gel 75
3.3.7 Powder 76
3.3.8 Capsule 77
3.3.9 Stick 77
3.3.10 Aerosol 77
Glossary of Terms 78
Abbreviations 79
References 80
4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81
Learning Objectives 81
Key Concepts 82
4.1 Introduction 83
4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83
4.2.1 FDA Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition (CFSAN) 84
4.2.2 FDA Center for Drug Evaluation and Research (CDER) 84
4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85
4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85
4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86
4.6 National Advertising Division 87
4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87
4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88
4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88
4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88
[...]opean Commission 89
4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89
4.13 Cosmetics Europe - the Personal Care Association 89
Glossary of Terms 90
Abbreviations 90
References 91
5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93
Learning Objectives 93
Key Concepts 94
5.1 Introduction 95
5.2 Regulation in the US 95
5.2.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 95
5.2.2 Premarket Approval 97
5.2.3 Manufacturing 98
5.2.4 Use of Ingredients 98
5.2.5 Product Safety 99
5.2.6 Packaging and Labeling 101
5.2.7 Import of Products 102
5.2.8 Recalls 102
5.3 Regulation in the EU 104
5.3.1 Registration of Manufacturing Facilities and Products 105
5.3.2 Premarket Approval 105
5.3.3 Manufacturing 105
5.3.4 Use of Ingredients 105
5.3.5 Product Safety 106
5.3.6 Packaging and Labeling 107
5.3.7 Import of Products 107
5.3.8 Recalls 107
Glossary of Terms 108
Abbreviations 108
References 109
6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111
Learning Objectives 111
Key Concepts 112
6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112
6.1.1 Documentation 115
6.1.2 Records 115
6.1.3 Buildings and Facilities 116
6.1.4 Equipment 116
6.1.5 Personnel 116
6.1.6 Raw Materials 117
6.1.7 Production 117
6.1.8 Laboratory Controls 117
6.1.9 Internal Audit 117
6.1.10 Complaints Adverse Events and Recalls 117
Glossary of Terms 119
Abbreviations 120
References 120
7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121
Learning Objectives 121
Key Concepts 122
7.1 Introduction 123
7.1.1 Definitions 124
7.2 Cosmetic Products 125
7.2.1 Principal Display Panel 125
7.2.2 Information Panels 127
7.3 OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 130
7.3.1 Principal Display Panel 130
7.3.2 Information Panels 131
7.4 INCI Naming 134
7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug-Cosmetic Product? 136
Glossary of Terms 137
Abbreviations 138
References 139
8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug-Cosmetic Products 141
Learning Objectives 141
Key Concepts 142
8.1 Product Development Cycle 143
8.2 Product Testing 144
8.2.1 Quality Testing 145
8.2.2 Stability Testing 147
8.2.3 Safety Testing 150
8.2.4 Performance Testing 153
Glossary of Terms 156
Abbreviations 157
References 157
Part 2 Skin Care Products 161
9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163
Learning Objectives 163
Key Concepts 164
9.1 Introduction 165
9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165
9.2.1 Epidermis 165
9.2.2 Dermis 170
9.2.3 Hypodermis 172
9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172
9.3.1 Moisture Content of Normal Skin 172
9.3.2 Skin Flora and Skin pH 174
9.3.3 Surface Charge of Normal Skin 175
9.3.4 Skin Types 175
Glossary of Terms 178
Abbreviations 180
References 180
10 Skin Cleansing Products 183
Learning Objectives 183
Key Concepts 185
10.1 Introduction 186
10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186
10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187
10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188
10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191
10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191
10.6.1 Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness 191
10.6.2 Classification Based on Cleaning Principle 192
10.6.3 Classification Based on Foamability 193
10.6.4 Classification Based on Product Types 194
10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195
10.7.1 Facial Cleansers 195
10.7.2 Body Cleansers 200
10.7.3 Hand Cleansers 206
10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211
10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212
10.9.1 Sticky Bath Salts and Bath Bombs 212
10.9.2 Broken Bath Bombs 213
10.9.3 Discoloration of Bar Soaps 213
10.9.4 Poor Foaming Activity of Foaming Formulations 213
10.9.5 Separation of Emulsions 213
10.9.6 Cloudy Solution 215
10.9.7 Microbiological Contamination 215
10.9.8 Clump formation 216
10.9.9 Rancidity 216
10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216
10.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 216
10.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 229
10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231
10.11.1 Parabens 231
10.11.2 Sulfates 232
10.11.3 1,4-Dioxane 232
10.11.4 Microbeads 233
10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233
Glossary of Terms 234
Abbreviations 236
References 237
11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243
Learning Objectives 243
Key Concepts 244
11.1 Introduction 245
11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245
11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246
11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247
11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249
11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249
11.6.1 Skin Hydrating and Moisturizing Ingredients 250
11.6.2 Additional Ingredients in Skin Moisturizers 254
11.7 Product Types 256
11.7.1 Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 258
11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259
11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260
11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260
11.10.1 Quality Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.10.2 Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 260
11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267
11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268
Glossary of Terms 269
Acronyms 270
References 270
12 Products for Aging 275
Learning Objectives 275
Key Concepts 276
12.1 Introduction 277
12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277
12.2.1 Intrinsic Aging 277
12.2.2 Extrinsic Aging 279
12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281
12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282
12.4.1 Botanical Extracts 283
12.4.2 Antioxidants 283
12.4.3 Peptides and Proteins 284
12.4.4 Retinoids 284
12.4.5 Hydroxy Acids 285
12.4.6 Sunscreens 286
12.4.7 Chemical Peels 286
12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287
12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290
12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291
12.7.1 AHAs 292
12.7.2 Topical Retinoids 292
12.7.3 Peptides and Proteins 292
12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293
Glossary of Terms 293
Abbreviations 294
References 295
13 Products for Acne 301
Learning Objectives 301
Key Concepts 302
13.1 Introduction 302
13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303
13.3 Development of Acne 304
13.3.1 Pathogenesis of Acne 304
13.3.2 Causes of Acne and Potential Exacerbating Factors 305
13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307
13.4.1 Noninflammatory Acne 307
13.4.2 Inflammatory Acne 308
13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309
13.5.1 Topical Treatment Options 309
13.5.2 Systemic Treatment Options 312
13.5.3 Additional Treatment Options 313
13.6 Formulation Considerations 314
13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315
13.7.1 Topical Ingredients 315
13.7.2 Oral Retinoids 315
13.7.3 Antibacterial Resistance 316
13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316
Glossary of Terms 316
Abbreviations 317
References 317
14 Skin Lightening Products 323
Learning Objectives 323
Key Concepts 324
14.1 Introduction 325
14.2 Skin Color and Production...
Details
| Erscheinungsjahr: | 2022 |
|---|---|
| Genre: | Chemie |
| Rubrik: | Naturwissenschaften & Technik |
| Medium: | Buch |
| Seiten: | 832 |
| Inhalt: | 832 S. |
| ISBN-13: | 9781119709770 |
| ISBN-10: | 1119709776 |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| Einband: | Gebunden |
| Autor: | Baki, Gabriella |
| Hersteller: | John Wiley & Sons Inc |
| Maße: | 237 x 159 x 49 mm |
| Von/Mit: | Gabriella Baki |
| Erscheinungsdatum: | 09.12.2022 |
| Gewicht: | 1,282 kg |
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