Introduction: Fashioning Power: The Politics of Dress in Modern Africa Jean Allman

Part 1. Fashioning Unity: Women and Dress; Power and Citizenship

1. Remaking Fashion in the Paris of the Indian Ocean: Dress, Performance, and the Cultural Construction of a Cosmopolitan Zanzibari Identity Laura Fair

2. Dress and Politics in Post World War II Abeokuta (Western Nigeria) Judith Byfield

3. Nationalism without a Nation: The Dress of Somali Women in Minneapolis-St. Paul Heather Marie Akou

Part 2. Dressing Modern: Gender, Generation, and Invented (National) Traditions

4. The Importance of Clothing in Struggles over Identity in Colonial Western Kenya Margaret Jean Hay

5. Putting on a Pano and Dancing Like Our Grandparents: Nation and Dress in Late Colonial Luanda Marissa Moorman

6. "Anti-mini Militants Meet Modern Misses": Urban Style, Gender, and the Politics of "National Culture" in 1960s Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Andrew M. Ivaska

Part 3. Disciplined Dress: Gendered Authority and the National Politics

7. From Khaki to Agbada: Dress and Political Transition in Nigeria Elisha P. Renne

8. "Let Your Fashion Be in Line with Our Ghanaian Costume": Nation, Gender, and the Politics of Cloth-ing in Nkrumah's Ghana Jean Allman

9. Miniskirts, Gender Relations, and Sexuality in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen

Part 4. African "Traditions" and Global Markets: The Political Economy of Fashion and Identity

10. Fashionable Traditions: The Globalization of an African Textile Victoria L. Rovine

11. African Textiles and the Politics of Diasporic Identity- Making A. Boatema Boateng

Afterword Phyllis M. Martin

List of Contributors

Index